Gutter Repair & Installation
Sagging, leaking, overflowing gutters cause fascia rot, foundation damage, and ice dams — often more expensive than the gutter repair itself. We repair and replace all gutter systems with correct sizing, pitch, and downspout placement. Seamless gutters fabricated on-site.
Free Gutter Inspection & Estimate
Repair or full replacement · Same-week scheduling · 3-yr warranty
Why Gutters Matter
Gutters are the drainage system for your entire roof. When they fail, the damage travels upward into the fascia and roof deck, sideways into your siding, and downward to your foundation. Most homeowners replace gutters too late — after the downstream damage is already expensive.
Gutter fails or overflows
Water pours behind the gutter instead of through it. Starts every rain event.
Fascia board absorbs water
The wood fascia behind the gutter wets and dries repeatedly. Rot begins within 1–2 seasons.
Rot spreads to roof decking
Rotted fascia allows moisture under the first course of shingles and into the deck. Now it’s a roofing problem.
Water pools at foundation
Downspouts discharging too close to the house or clogged cause foundation settling and basement infiltration.
Ice dams form (northern markets)
Clogged gutters hold ice that backs water up under shingles. A $400 gutter fix becomes a $4,000 interior repair.
■ How Gutters Fail & What They Damage
K-style, half-round, box, and fascia gutters each have different profiles, sizing requirements, and repair approaches. Select your type below.
K-Style Profile & Cross-Section
K-style gutters are on approximately 80% of US homes. The flat back attaches flush to fascia; the decorative ogee front resembles crown molding. The 5” size handles most residential applications; 6” is used on larger roofs or high-rainfall areas.
Common repairs & causes
Best for
All standard residential applications. Seamless K-style (custom fabricated on-site) eliminates mid-run joint leaks entirely and is our recommended upgrade from sectional gutters.
Half-Round Profile & Cross-Section
Half-round gutters have a smooth, round interior that sheds debris more easily than K-style and resists corrosion. Very common on Craftsman, Colonial, and Tudor-style homes. Copper half-round is the premium option for historic preservation — it develops a natural patina and lasts 50–100 years.
Common repairs & causes
Best for
Historic homes, Craftsman bungalows, and premium residential where the round profile matches the architectural style. Copper is the premium choice for maximum longevity.
Box Gutter / Commercial Profile
Box gutters are built into the roof structure, not hung on the fascia. Very common on commercial buildings, schools, and homes built before 1960. The box is structural wood or metal; the waterproofing is a liner (historically lead, now typically TPO or EPDM). When the liner fails, water leaks directly into the structure below.
Common repairs & causes
Common buildings
Schools, churches, office buildings, warehouses, and period homes (Victorians, Colonials, industrial loft conversions). Box gutter repair is specialist work — general roofers often misdiagnose the liner as a shingle problem.
Fascia / Integrated Gutter Profile
Fascia gutters combine the fascia board and gutter into a single aluminum extrusion. The gutter channel is hidden at the back of the fascia, creating a very clean roofline with no visible gutter hanging below. Growing in popularity in contemporary and modern architecture in the US.
Common repairs & causes
Best for
Contemporary and modern architecture where a clean, minimalist roofline is desired. Very common on new construction with concealed gutter design intent. Requires matching the exact extrusion profile for repairs.
Every gutter problem has a specific cause and repair. Find yours below.
Gutters dip in the middle or separate from the fascia. Usually most visible from the yard. Water pools in the sag rather than draining to downspouts.
During rain, water pours between the back of the gutter and the fascia board instead of into the gutter. Creates a constant drip at the foundation during rain.
Water drips from the seam between two gutter sections or at an inside/outside corner. Small but persistent; often leaves rust stains on the siding below.
Water pours over the front lip of the gutter during a normal rainstorm despite gutters being clean. Not a clog issue — a capacity or pitch issue.
Wind or ice weight caused the gutter to partially detach from the fascia. One or more sections hanging at an angle. Common after significant storms.
Brown rust stains on siding, holes in steel gutters, or sections of aluminum that have been crushed or cracked. Often combined with other problems.
If you’re replacing gutters, this is the most important decision you’ll make. Here’s what actually matters.
★ Our Recommendation
Seamless Gutters
Custom-fabricated on-site to exact length — no mid-run joints
Sectional Gutters
Sectional Gutters
Pre-cut lengths joined with connectors — available at hardware stores
The honest answer: quality micro-mesh guards significantly reduce cleaning frequency and keep debris out. Foam inserts and cheap snap-on covers mostly cause more problems than they solve. Here’s how the types compare.
Stainless steel micro-mesh filter over an aluminum frame. Allows water through while blocking debris. Our recommended product. Reduces cleaning to every 2–3 years vs. annually. Professional installation required for correct fit.
Water follows the curve into the gutter; debris falls off. Works well in light debris conditions. Can allow fine debris in and fails in heavy pine needle or seed pod environments. Not recommended where leaf load is heavy.
Porous foam sits in the gutter. Works briefly, then collects debris within the foam itself, retains moisture, and grows moss and algae. Often causes more damage than no guard at all. We do not install foam inserts.
Plastic or aluminum covers with holes. Better than foam but holes clog with shingle granules and seed pods. Adequate for low-debris environments; not reliable under large trees.
Gutter Service Cost Guide
| Service | Typical Range |
|---|---|
| Re-sealing joints (per joint) | $20 – $60 |
| Hanger replacement (per section) | $75 – $200 |
| Gutter section replacement (per 10 ft) | $100 – $300 |
| Downspout replacement | $75 – $250 |
| Fascia board repair (per 8-ft section) | $150 – $450 |
| Seamless gutter install (per lin. ft) | $6 – $14 |
| Full seamless replacement (avg. home) | $800 – $2,500 |
| Copper gutter install (per lin. ft) | $25 – $45 |
| Micro-mesh guard install (per lin. ft) | $5 – $12 |
Simple process, same-week scheduling in most markets.
"My old sectional gutters leaked at every joint and were sagging in two spots. I was dreading the quote. RoofRepair.co came out, found the fascia was rotted behind the worst section, fixed the fascia, then fabricated new seamless gutters on-site that day. The whole job — fascia repair, new seamless gutters and downspouts, micro-mesh guards — was done in one day. Zero leaks all winter, including a bad ice storm."
"Water was pouring behind my gutters on the back of the house during every rain. Two companies said I needed full replacement. RoofRepair.co found that the drip edge was missing on that section and the gutter had been hung without proper slope. They added drip edge, re-hung the affected section at correct pitch, and re-sealed the joints. $340 total. Solved completely."
"After the January ice dams caused ceiling damage, I had everything inspected. The gutters were overflowing because they were undersized 4” when they should have been 5” for my roof area. RoofRepair.co replaced all gutters with 5” seamless, added micro-mesh guards (no more leaf cleaning), and extended the downspouts 6 ft from the house. Next winter, no ice dams, no overflow, no ceiling damage."
Free inspection · Same-week scheduling · Seamless fabricated on-site · 3-year warranty